This exhibit is a look at a small part of the story of women in advertising. The Early Golden-Age, roughly 1878-1892, was a revolutionary time in the portrayal of women. During this decade, advertising began to feature women of all social classes from the President’s bride to public laundresses and women of all levels of accomplishment, from growing big boobs to achieving great artistic feats. There aren’t many of the latter, though, as “the proper role of women” remained highly restricted, in advertising and real life, until the social revolution of the 1960’s.
This exhibit deliberately gives a lopsided view of sexuality and nudity on cigar labels because this decade featured more nude, more semi-nude, more suggestive and provocative women on cigar boxes than at any other time in advertising history.
Prior to the 1880’s, nudes were typically allegorical, sex was barely hinted at, and women tended to be demure, reserved, relegated to highly defined roles, either family or the arts. Cigar box women were typically formal, static, and printed in black and white. In contrast, women of the 1880’s were vibrant in color and design, showing sex appeal, fortitude, and previously unseen variety of pose, dress, locale, and attitude. They weren’t completely liberated, but they were on their way.
Although a few boxes are identified as “Curator’s favorites,” a good many more could qualify. This period, with its sexy and accomplished ladies, are among my favorite mini-collections.
Ladies of the Eighties
Sex Rears its Lovely Head;
Women on Early Golden-Age cigar boxes
A National Cigar Museum Gallery Exclusive
© Tony Hyman
Exquisite example of box design style of the 1870’s, a languishing allegorical semi-nude with brand name knock off from Cuba, complete with Island address. Cigars by R.K. Schnader, whose 50 rollers made Fact. 803 the 3rd largest of 124 operating in Lancaster, PA, in 1883. [7615 La Importancia]
Liberated women, soliciting votes. 1870’s style, but an 1880’s theme. Cigars by John Rauch, whose 20 rollers working in Fact. 97, 6th Dist., of Indiana made him Indianapolis’s 3rd largest of 91 factories.
Box used 1880. [7593 Women's Rights],
A curator’s favorite.
Unusual 1870s transitional design treatment of an attractive allegorical label. Pastels, white edging. Note overprinted brand name “customizing.” Cigars by Giant Sutro & Newmark, NYC Fact. 412.
[7671 Par Value, 1883]
Theatrical characters Blanche and Rose appear on this transitional, full rectangle inner, in pastel colors and white edging. Only brand name is on top. Theater was a very popular cigar label theme.
[7674 Blanch & Rose 1884]
Soft pastel colors, white edging, flanked central design element, all typical of early 80’s boxes.
Cigars by H.M. Mason, whose 75 rollers made Fact. 825, 3rd Mass, the 2nd largest factory in Boston.
[7657 Incognito, 1880]
Lovely late 70’s “transitional” style label featuring a zaftig corseted beauty flanked by warring cherubs.
Cigars by J.A. Prist, Lititz, PA, Fact. 288 9th PA.
[7586 Reeds Select, 1882]
Romantic love found its way onto labels in the 1830’s and continued. Flanking vignettes, soft colors and white edging...typical 1880s. Cigars by NYC giant Sutro & Newmark, Fact. 412, 3rd NYC.
[7667 My Partner, 1886]
A classic example of 1870s - early 80s design, flanking vignettes and soft colors BUT not actually used until 1908. Cigars by Hettermann Bros, whose 75 rollers made Fact 23 the 2nd largest in Kentucky.
[7757 Kentucky’s Pride, 1908]
Octagonal end label with flanking vignettes in typical transitional design. Nice double entente as both the woman and the cigar are “Without Equal.” Name a rip-off of well-known Cuban brand. Fact. 63, 9th PA.
NWH boxes were usually POB, but when labeled, only with inners. [7696 Sin Par, 1880’s]
Central square with similar, not identical, flanking vignettes identify it as a transitional 1870s-80s design. Color and book shape began in the 1870s but are more typical of 1880s. Cigars by J. Holzman, NYC, a major user of innovative packaging. Romantic asexual theme. [9524 Attraction, 1879]
Demure young sisters on unusual monochrome image with two color border and title. Cigars by Frank Hoch, Fact. 1003, 18th Ohio in Massilon.
[7768 Twin sister, 1880s]
Spanish woman cigar smoker in traditional costume,
but with a coquettish air. 1880s color, white edging, and oval-shaped design with rounded corners.
Cigars made in Fact. 167, 3rd New York City.
[7747 La Divina, 1880s]
Saucy lady welcoming whom? Cigars by giant
NYC cigar maker Kerbs & Spiess whose
750 rollers worked at 2nd Ave. at 54th.
Bosomy female cigar smoker.
Fact. 13, 3rd District NYC.
[7702 Welcome, 1880-82]
Typical 80s box, with Heffron & Phelps blue and tan label, plain red edging. Cigars by John P. Hies, Syracuse, Fact. 412, 21st Dist. NY. The February 14th cancellation suggests it might have
been given as a Valentine.
[12702 Little Flirt, 1885]
Double entendre. Sloe-eyed sexy cigar smoker
implies she likes more than the cigar.
The new freedom of advertising.
Cigars by David Marx whose 30 rollers worked
in Fact. 107, 3rd Dist (382 South St) in NYC.
[7626 I Like It, 1885]
The definition of a chippy, a woman of loose morals, hasn’t changed. Cigars made by Kahner & Merkel, whose 500 roller Fact. 65 was located at 202 E. 100th in NYC. Women languishing in hammocks, on beds, and elsewhere are seen frequently in the 80s.
[10027 Chippy, 1884]
Beautiful color printing highlights this very early 80’s woman decorating this nickel cigar made in
Factory 227, 26th Dist of Western NY.
[7785 Paragon, 1881]
A long-time brand in Cuba, Magnolia was adopted as a brand name by more than one U.S. maker. This languishing flower-waver was used by
Fred Reinhardt whose 15 rollers worked In
Utica, NY, Factory 121, 21st tax District.
[7706 Magnolia, 1889]
Another well known Cuban brand, this one copies the original and includes the name of Vidal, the
Cuban distributor. Cigars made (with permission?)
in Fact. 401, 1st Dist. Calif. by Liebes Bros.,
San Francisco’s largest (300 rollers) factory.
[9111 La Criolla, c1886]
Nicely printed allegorical languishing lady used by Hoenes & Kirschner, Factory 211 in Colusa,
4th District of California.
[9005 Princess, 1890]
Very high quality printing characterizes this fine art knock-off from the early 1880’s. Trays kept
cigars from getting damaged. Cigars made in
Fact. 484, 1st Dist. Ohio. A curator’s favorite.
[7722 The Siren, c1888]
This NWH 50 with its long configuration is not
typical of the period, but the label’s printing
and languishing lady certainly are. Cigars
by A. Davis Sons, Fact. 199 in Cincinnati,
home to 45 rollers.
[7715 La Rosa Sublime, 1881]
Lots of unburnished “gold” decorates this languishing lady having her cigar lit from
a flaming arrow held by a cherub.
[7717 La Rosa Sublime, 1881]
Nameless inner and oval cut are typical of an earlier era, but the colors and the post are of the 1880s.
Cigars by I.D. Gabel, Bordertown, NJ,
Fact. 187, 1st Dist who had 45 rollers.
[9162 Murillo, c1885]
Note big emphasis on “Key West Factory No. 187” on the backsplash, eliminating the New Jersey location of the factory to make it appear they
were the more expensive and prestigious
cigars from Key West, Florida.
[9161 Murillo c1885]
Lovely soft bare breasted woman surrounded by cherubs. Dictionary definitions of the brand name include: Very delicate, pretty, small and dainty.
Cigars made in Fact. 225, 3rd NYC.
[7759 Mignon, 1880s]
Bare breasted hammock lounging, diaphanously dressed lady of the time. Cigars by one of
Richmond & Co’s 75 rollers working in
Fact. 1745, 9th Dist, Terre Hill, PA.
[7756 Serena, 1880s]
Languishing lady with unusually dressed Cupid
shooting her in the breast. Cigars by F. Krell
and Brother, whose factory 182, 1st Dist,
was in Tamaqua, PA. Very typical 80’s box.
[8733 A Hit, c1885]
Despite the brand name, it’s a tail-free woman languishing in the sea-shell. Cigars by giant
NYC cigar maker Kerbs & Spiess whose
750 rollers worked at 2nd Ave. at 54th.
Fact. 13, 3rd District NYC.
[7619 Mermaid, 1882]
Diaphanously dressed semi-nude laying on a bed of flowers. Stock label ordered blank and locally overprinted with brand name for use by
R. Albrecht’s one man Fact. 38 in San Francisco.
[11662 Star of Key West, 1880s]
Outstanding early languishing semi-nude female smoker used by the Empire Cigar Co.
Fact. 1440, 3rd Dist, NYC. on this box
made for distributors Stiefel & Lederman.
French frontmark: “Correct, as it should be”
[7640 Perfection, 1881]
Exotic Middle-Eastern semi-nude languishing in a hammock with a bird on this stock label ordered blank and overprinted locally. Cigars made in the
5 man Millersville, PA, factory 493, 9th District
belonging to George F. Kahler.
[7705 Your Pick, 1885]
Rare full nude, Paradise brand, White Labor sticker, small 5 man gold country (Grass Valley) factory 10, 4th District California, and early date combine to make this sensational box a curator’s favorite.
[7721 Paradise, 1880]
Outstanding use of gold ink and varnish. Cigars made by R. Stenecke, Fact. 120, NYC, for Distributor E.C. Hazard & Co.
[7764 La Belle de Reims, 1892]
Beautiful inside and out, this lady lounges and smokes in her drawing room.
Unusual dark teal liner.
A curator’s favorite.
[7765 La Belle de Reims, 1892]
A cut-down outer was used on this rare trimmed
NWHC25/5 box featuring a languishing bathing beauty in the day’s swimming attire.
Cigars made in Fact. 2216, 9th Dist. PA.
Catalog card missing.
[4477, c1886]
Park benches can be comfortable spots to lay down if you have a pillow, blanket and a good cigar made
by John Stauffer, Lititz, PA, whose Factory 1615
employed 25 rollers.
[7682 solid comforts, 1880s]
Taking it easy, floating down the river half-naked smoking a cigar. Very elaborate modification of 70’s style design. Cigars made in the 5 man factory of B.B. Barrett in Auburn, NY, #93, 21st Dist.
A curator’s favorite. [7740 Little Chief, 1891]
Can you get much less politically correct than showing a naked female slave in a gossamer gown?
Times change! Cigars by George Oaks, Oshkosh, Factory 273, 1st District Wisconsin.
[7725 White Slave, 1893]
Languishing allegorical semi-nude in the woods
used by NYC giant Carl Upmann, Fact 253, 3rd NYC whose 300 rollers worked in the
400 block of E. 59th Street.
[10038 Vista, c1890]
1870s - early 80s design, flanking vignettes and soft colors. A classic BUT not actually used until 1908. Cigars by Hettermann Bros, whose 75 rollers made Fact 23 the 2nd largest in Kentucky.
[7757 Kentucky’s Pride]
Why it’s not accurate to use the type of label or its registration date as the date of a cigar box. This leggy lady first appeared in the early 1880s but W.E. Oilweller of Long Level, PA, was still attracting buyers with her in 1916. Fact. 920, 9th PA.
[7786 Blue Stocking, 1916]
Sexy lady smoking as she shows a lot of leg coming down the garden stairs. Cigars by an unknown short-lived southern Illinois factory.
[9518 Black Satin, c1888]
Lots of decollete characterizes this early 1880s charmer. Label purchased blank, “customized” by a local printer who mysteriously added a period after the brand name. Cigars by Hull, Grummond’s 250 rollers in Binghamton, NY Fact. 227, 21st.
[7710 Alamo,, 1884]
Sexily posed lady with a then-current slang expression, origin unknown, though music or theater are likely. Cigars by H.S. Meiskey, Lititz, PA,
Fact 2353, 9th Dist. c1890.
[12729]
Saucy smoker in tight pants and cleavage used by Lichtenstein Bros. whose huge Factory 50 in NYC employed 1,000 rollers. Sex sells.
[7677 Spicy, 1881]
A grass widow is a divorcee or someone who fools around when her husband is out of town. Cigars by Fred Haak, Davenport, whose 40 rollers made his Fact. 67, 4th Dist Iowa, that state’s 2nd largest cigar factory. The largest, also in Davenport, had 200.
[7781 Grass Widow, c1893]
Stock label of three cigar-smoking ladies with baskets filled with cigars for sale. Stock label sold blank and “customized” by a local printer.
Cigars by Harris Traub, Factory 350, 3rd NYC,
who employed five rollers.
[7778 Merry Maidens, 1880s]
Casual interaction between men and women, meetings without formal introduction, were part
of the new morality seen on cigar boxes of the 80s.
Cigars made in one of the 175 rollers in Sam Josephs & Co.’s Fact. 1000, 3rd NYC.
[12709 Introduction, mid 1880s]
Public flirting became fodder for ads.
Cigars by Towne, Fuller & Co., Springfield, Fact. 27, 10th Dist. the 2nd largest cigar factory in Mass.
[7875 Gentle Puff, c1885]
Terrific play on words. “Gimmie a made to order cigar” which depicts a woman Maid to Order around.
Cigars by Benj. Wissler, Lincoln, Fact. 695, 9th PA, made for James McClurg & Co., Pittsburgh.
A curator’s favorite.
[12705 Maid to Order, c1883]
Pudor, bashfulness, was still considered
a feminine virtue. The brand name was added to a stock label with a pose and setting that raise questions about her demeanor.
[9550 Pudor, c1883]
Modesty wasn’t out of fashion either.
Cigars by Sutro & Newmark, NYC giant with
1,000 rollers at Fact. 412 on 73rd St.
[9578 Modesty, 1891]
Nor was Virginity, but it’s an odd brand name.
NWH box with die cut. Cigars by Loeb & Weiss, Fact. 113, 11th Dist, Columbus, Ohio. 25 rollers.
[6045 Virginity, 1880s]
Fine pretty girl with cleavage. Plain red edging. Cigars by Lehr & Clark, (100 rollers in Reading), Fact. 201, 1st Dist for Jos. Williams, Agent, Syracuse, NY.
[7741 Rare, 1888]
Portraits of women with a first name for a brand are quite common on cigar boxes of the 1860-1910 period. Thousands exist. This NWC has a typical delicate portrait in a late 70’s central oval with flanking vignettes and minimal use of color.
[9420 Edith, 1881]
Pin-up in the garden. Cigars by William Lewis, whose 300 rollers tied his San Francisco factory 27 for California’s biggest in the 80’s.
[7711 Legacy, early 1880s]
Portraits of women extend beyond sex.
Cigars by M. Cohn, Fact. 540, Hillsdale
Michigan. Label purchased blank and “customized” by local printer. Almost any label could be ordered
blank and customized in this manner.
[10271 Story Tellers, c1890]
Great printing, but a much different subject matter. Who exactly was this designed to appeal to? Cigars by Lichtenstein’s 1,000 roller NYC Factory 50, made for Norris & Crockett in Concord, NH.
[7749 Gossips, c1892]
Interesting transitional label with central square flanked by vignettes that match in color and design and together form the oval design which typifies the 1880s. Cigars by Towne, Fuller & Co. of Springfield, 2nd largest factory in Mass. with 150 rollers.
[7697 Our Club, 1880]
Riding was an acceptable sport-activity for women of the day. Cigars packed in square 100/10 box, seen most often in the 1880’s. Cigars by Sutro & Newmark whose 1000 rollers worked in Fact. 412 at the corner of 73rd & 2nd Ave. in NYC.
[7689 Hailstone, c1887]
Women posed with dogs and cats were on labels for 100 years, but donkeys are among the more unusual critters they called friend. Cigars by Standard Cigar Co., Fact. 17, in Providence whose 50 rollers made it RI’s biggest, for W.C. Cook, in Providence, RI. [7752 Fast Friends, c1887]
Based on “An Affair of Honor” by Emile Bayard, this view of women was revolutionary. The image was also appropriated by a brand of chewing tobacco. Cigars by S. Lowenthal, Cincinnati Fact. 18.
A curator’s favorite.
[7737 & 0827 For Honor, 1887]
Maud Powell, (b1868) who made her US debut in 1885 Philadelphia to great acclaim “second to no American violinist.” She established the first female classical quartet in America. Cigars by
A. Davis Sons, Fact 199, Cincinnati.
[7744 La Virtuosa, c1886]
Accomplished women became commonplace on cigar labels during this decade. Cigars made in
Fact. 1908, 9th Dist. PA.
[7708 Belle of Rink, c1890]
Frances Folsom, young bride of President Grover Cleveland, married in the White House in 1886.
Remnants of 1870’s style design. Cigars by
Powell & Goldstein, Fact. 370, 21st Dist, NY.
[2203 Wedding Bells, 1886]
